Dear friends of ours have family connections on Lubbers
Quarters, a smallish (that’s the technical term, it is bigger than a “rock”
after all) island in the Abaco (ah-bah-ko) Islands. Joining with them and several other good
friends scattered across the U.S. we rented a house, rented a boat, and found
plane tickets that would land us in Marsh Harbor.
It’s a great feeling to see a crashed airplane as you’re
coming into land… Thankfully our fate
was not so tragic. We landed over The
Marls, which to my uneducated eye looked a lot like either a flooded desert or
a drained marsh. I’m really not sure which.
Our boat rental company picked us up (by boat of course) at
Marsh Harbor and took us across some very choppy water to Hope Town. Covered in salt spray and thoroughly shaken
and maybe a little stirred, we were given a quick tour of the boat then set
loose on the poor people of Hope Town.
Boats don’t go in a straight line very well. Even if your driver is completely rum
free. Plus touchy throttles and slow
tail to nose (stern to bow, sorry, I’ll always be more of a horse person than
boat person) response made our going stressful to say the least. An enormous thanks to whichever member of our
team remember that the pro controlled the throttle with tiny knuckle
bumps. By day three, I kind of got the
hang of the throttle.
Hint: If you have trouble getting parked between the painted lines in a parking lot, boating is not for you... |
Things were downhill in a good way from there. We loaded up the golf carts (the main form of
transportation around Lubbers Quarters) and headed to Gone Bananas, a name I
found oddly appropriate. I mean, who in
their right mind would fly from a landlocked state to the middle of the ocean
and plan to spend a week on an island getting groceries by boat?!?
Groceries by Boat |
Gone Bananas was stunning offering all the amenities you
could want, minus having the entire island wrapped in mosquito netting. With access to several beaches, docks, and seemingly
endless stretches of wade-able waters we were home free. We wandered the island, fished, tormented hermit
crabs, poked around for sea creatures of every sort and generally just relaxed.
Going Fishing |
We sampled the local fare at Lubbers Landing and enjoyed the
Full Moon party at Cracker P’s. We also
enjoyed a breath taking view and scrumptious dinner with our hosts at Harbor
Inn in Hope Town. In between evenings
out, we did our best to catch our dinner and managed to cook-up some amazing
Trigger fish (if you can get it skinned, it is like nothing I have ever tasted)
and fry some conch.
Dinner party! |
Conch Carving |
Our snorkeling and diving adventure with Froggies didn’t go
quite as planned. The reefs we explored
were not well sheltered and the sea was a bit rough. One of our group ended up sea sick and
another had a nasty salt imbalance issue that pretty well put him on his
butt. Unfortunately, they didn’t miss
much. The Lionfish have been very hard
on the reef fish. We were told that they
are rebuilding, but there wasn’t much aquatic life on our adventures. The divers had a brief run in with a shark
and I about head butted a barracuda. That
was the extent of it.
We did take a day to explorer on our own. Our hosts pointed out a few good spots and
gave me careful directions for getting there and back safely. We swam with the turtles in Tilloo Pond,
although all we ever saw were heads poking up out of the water. The water made us incredibly buoyant, so even
though the turtles were hiding we had a delightful time. We also spent time combing Tilloo Bank for
sand dollars, sea biscuits, star fish and conch.
What is this? |
In between adventures, we enjoyed thunderstorm after
thunderstorm. It gave everyone a chance
to recharge, stay out of the sun and it filled the rain barrels (the only
source of water on the island). For me
it was a blessed chance to stay in bed during a thunderstorm. I love listening to the rain, but my job
forces me to work whenever there is bad weather. Oh how I’ve missed just listening to the
rain!
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